We hike up the notoriously boggy Nine Standards Rigg where a line of mysterious Neolithic cairns marks the boundary of Yorkshire, and then descend into the valley of the Swale, which we will follow east for the next three days
1 KIRKBY STEPHEN TO KELD
2 Crossing the Eden as we leave town
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8 We start the climb of Nine Standards Rigg, first of the Pennines
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10 More intermittent rain-with-wind today
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18 It starts to get muddy as we climb
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20 The Standards are Neolithic cairns of unknown use
21 They stand on the only solid rock on the Rigg
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24 As we step off the Standards outcropping to cross the top of the Rigg, it starts to get boggy. Welcome to Yorkshire!
25 Any small stream crossing the Rigg becomes a deep mire
26 Swamp thing! Neil just got pulled out of a thigh-deep sinkhole
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29 What's most amazing for Americans is that notwithstanding all rain, water and mud we have encountered - no mosquitos!
30 Lunch at a grouse-hunters' hut as we descend from the Rigg
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39 Ravenseat Farm, one of the most isolated in England
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41 From here we go down into the valley of the Swale
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47 Crossing the Swale, not far from its source above Keld
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51 Catrake Force (waterfall); peat stains the water deep brown.
